NOTE: Before beginning repairs, remove power from the unit.
This information applies to many models, but specifically those starting with prefixes such as PYE, CYE, PYE2000, PYE2300, and more.
One common failure in modern refrigerators that we encounter time and time again is a failure in the defrost system. You might notice that things are as cold as they should be in either section, and if you’re very attentive, you might see an ice or frost buildup on the back wall inside the freezer section. Wait, don’t throw the refrigerator out! This is likely a simple fix.
You have a defrost issue.
Now comes the hard part: figuring out which component is bad, and replacing it.
Step 1) Determine what sets the machine into defrost. On newer models, skip ahead or call for specifics. Some machines can be forced into defrost, but some cannot. On older models, this would be the defrost timer. It’s a mechanical timer usually located inside the control box area in the refrigerator, but sometimes it’s placed behind the grille in the front center. Once you locate this item, find the center cam on this timer and advance it until you hear a loud click. Fan should shut down, and the machine is now in defrost. At this point, wait a minute, then check back. Is there water dripping behind the back wall inside the freezer? Do you hear a sizzling noise? If so, good job! You’ve just proven the defrost thermostat and heater are working properly, so you need a defrost timer. No such luck? Proceed on…
Step 2) Remove the back wall in the freezer, and locate the defrost thermostat at the top of the evaporator coil. It should have two wires going to it, and you may have to cut the wires to test it. Firstly, does it appear bulged out or discolored? If so, replace it. If not, you can test the thermostat with a continuity tester or ohmmeter. Make sure that the thermostat is below the rated temperature (about 50 degrees usually) or it will test bad. So it was good? Move on…
Step 3) Test the defrost heater for continuity, and inspect for visual breakage or severe discoloration. Replace as needed.
If you can’t handle this, it’s no sweat. Call a professional. We will make it look easy, but the first one we did was just as painful as this one appears to you. Practice makes perfect! Call us at 402-399-0202 to talk to a tech or schedule service, or schedule online anytime at http://www.nhaparts.com/schedule-service/
Appliances are becoming more technical in nature, both to operate and to repair. Samsung washers and LG dishwashers are replacing the old standards, and we as appliance repair-people face an imperative: adapt or die! I have seen many excellent repairmen falter as they encounter newer appliances, pining for the days of the wig-wag or the motor coupling. I wish, however, to remind them of something: The GE refrigerators with electronic controls that once gave us pause are now old hat. All that it takes in a commitment to education, and a dedication to excellence.
I write you this, because I recently spoke to one of our customers that called another servicer, who told her just to buy a new washer, sight unseen, because it was a Whirlpool Cabrio and he didn’t think those were any good. Want to know the real issue? A sock was stuck between the inner and outer tubs of her washer, but another service company told her, without looking at it, that it wasn’t worth fixing because he didn’t understand the machines, and therefore didn’t think them to be worth fixing.
Look not through your rose colored glasses at the belt-driven Whirlpool washers of years ago. Instead, remember the filthy dirty job of changing a 95405 belt on one of those, or the weight of moving them. Realize instead that things change, and that even the largest canyons were carved by mere water. The real success comes from going with the flow, and seeing change as an opportunity to broaden your horizons, deepen your technical abilities, and most importantly, give your customers the service they deserve and are paying for. This is why we offer regular training for all of our technicians, utilize technology to place diagnostic information and service manuals in the hands of our customers and technicians, and generally try to keep a sunny outlook in the face of change.
If you find yourself as a service technician unwilling to take the plunge into learning new things, and embracing new appliance technologies, then do your customers a favor: step aside, and make room for those who will treat your customers as they deserve to be treated.
The UL error code can be one of the most frustrating and elusive error codes to address on the high efficiency top load washer designs, including the Whirlpool Cabrio, the Maytag Bravos, and the Kenmore Oasis. At first glance, the error code seems to indicate an unbalanced load. Here are a few things to check before you pull your hair out:
It happens. Were you washing a comforter or other bulky item? These items don’t always distribute evenly, and may lead to an unbalance error.
Grasp the inner tub on opposite sides and lift up. The tub should raise and lower without much effort about 3 inches. This allows the tub to engage and disengage from spin, and if the tub isn’t moving easily, a UL error will display at the end of the cycle. The cure for this is replacement of the complete outer tub assembly, which is often part # W10193886. The part is about $250, and will require an hour or more of your time to install. We can supply it and drop ship it directly to you regardless of location, just call 402-399-0202. Free shipping! Rarely, this can also be caused by garments or objects stuck beneath the wash basket.
If all else fails, we’ve seen it be the suspension rods. They are sold as a pack of 4 under part # W10189077, and they run about $69. Again, we can ship these anywhere for free. There is not often any outward sign of failure with these, so we reserve their replacement for after all other checks have been performed.
On models WTW6200S, WTW6300S, WTW6400S, and WTW6600S with a serial number range of CT04 to CT35, Whirlpool has issued a bulletin to replace the control board with W10112113 to remedy a severe off-balance condition.
In a couple rare cases not under the update, we have found the motor control board to be the cause of this error, but there is no great definitive troubleshooting that will point to the board, which is usually part # W10189966 and retail about $200. It’s definitely a hard knock to discover that the control board was the issue, because at this point you’ve likely already replaced the shocks and torn your machine apart and reassembled it. Such is life.
Another word of caution. The UL code is often displayed only at the end of the cycle, so it’s easy to think, “Ah, I fixed it!” only to find out 52 minutes later that it’s still broken. Beware, and dampen your spirits until it’s successfully completed the full cycle. If it’s alright at the very end, then it’s time to pop the cork on the champagne bottle.
If there is anything we can do to help, call us at 402-399-0202. We offer in-home service in the Omaha metro area, and we ship parts nationwide. Call and talk to a tech anytime!
Welcome to the Nebraska Home Appliance Blog! We aren’t 15 years late to the party, are we? Keep an eye out for articles, videos, and more designed to make your more informed about your appliances, and your appliance decisions.
Remember, we are here to help.
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