Tips & Frequently Asked Questions

For your convenience and to help better serve you, we have included answers to some of the most frequently asked questions right here on the website.

Sometimes your appliance simply needs a quick fix that you can take care of yourself. As Your Hometown Hero, we offer free advice to help walk you through a simple fix. Call us at 402-399-0202 to discuss your situation with one of our appliance specialists or search through the list of troubleshooting tips.


Sub-Zero refrigerator training session

You might wonder, “how exactly does Nebraska Home Appliance keep their technicians at the top of their game?” Well, that’s a great question. The answer, of course, is training, training, training.

Appliance Repairman Welding
Rico brazes a copper joint during our training session.
Compressor Replacement Demonstration
Brian inspects Darrin’s practice welds

Most recently we sent two of our veteran Sub-Zero and refrigerator technicians up to the factory training school in Fitchburg, Wisconsin to tour the factory, and obtain current best practices for making lasting repairs to Omaha’s Sub-Zs, as well as the repair techniques that will be needed to repair the refrigerators of the future. Alternative techniques were taught as well, including resistance brazing, and non-welded fittings such as Lokring. We also received a crash course in repairs methods for R600 isobutane refrigerant. Our technicians gained so much from the course that they just couldn’t wait to share it with everyone back at the office, so we held a training school in our workshop.

During this workshop our refrigeration experts Vince, Brian, and John led our newer employees through the basics of setting refrigeration torches properly, making a perfect weld, and leak checking finished welds properly. The take away, of course, is better quality work, done by top notch technicians, with training directly from the top refrigerator manufacturer in the world, Sub-Zero. If you need refrigerator repairs, or repairs of any sort, rest assured that our technicians are the best trained, and are trained only by the best.


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Ice Maker Problems and Repairs

Angie’s List recently interviewed Nebraska Home Appliance‘s own Todd Daganaar, in order to answer all of your burning (freezing?) ice maker questions.

Common issues with ice makers include:

“Generally, in any case, the ice maker itself will need to be replaced,” Daganaar says, as few manufacturers make separate parts for them. Thus, when a part in the ice maker assembly is broken, unfortunately the only option is to replace the whole assembly.

“The exception is if the ice maker symptom is being caused by something external, such as poor water pressure in the house, or a failing water inlet valve on the refrigerator.” Before NHA replaces the entire assembly, we check that the problem isn’t coming from the water inlet valve, water line or fan.

To read the full interview, including the average cost of replacement and ice maker maintenance (to keep them from breaking down), click here.

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Washing Machine (Laundry)

Washer problems and repair: Whirlpool, Maytag, GE and more

Are you having problems with your washer, does it need repair? Below are some common symptoms you may be experiencing and tips to help you diagnose the problem.

SymptomThings to check
Washer won’t fill
  • Check your water inlet valve, which supplies water into the machine
  • Check your water supply into the machine from the wall.
  • Check your pressure switch / water level switch and hose. (in this case, the machine would immediately start agitating even though it is empty.)
  • Check your lid switch. Some models such as older Maytag Washers have a lid switch that will not allow the machine to fill if the lid switch has failed.
Washer Overfills
  • Check your pressure switch / water level switch and hose. Sometimes the hose is just clogged with debris or has a hole in it.
  • Check your water inlet valve, which may be sticking open and overfilling. If this is the case, the water will not stop filling even if you turn off the machine.
Washer fills with water when off
  • Check your water inlet valve. If the valve is not shutting all the way, it will gradually drip water into the machine even when off. This is solved by replacing the valve.
Washer only fills with one temperature of water
  • Check your water inlet valve. This valve has two solenoids, and if one has failed, you will only get one temperature of water into the machine.
  • Check your temperature switch or timer. These are rarer to fail, but you can reverse the wires on the solenoids of the water valve to find out if the problem follows the side of the valve, or the electrical wires.
Washer will not agitate
  • Check the gears between your top and bottom half of the agitator (Whirlpool models)
  • Check the motor coupling between the motor and transmission (Whirlpool model)
  • Check the belt between the motor and drive pulley (belt driven models like GE, Hotpoint, Maytag, Speed Queen)
  • Check the lid switch. On some models this will even prevent agitation

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Dryer (Laundry)

Dryer problems and repair: Whirlpool, Maytag, GE and more

Are you having problems with your dryer, does it need repair? Below are some common symptoms you may be experiencing and tips to help you diagnose the problem.

SymptomThings to check
Dryer will not heat
  • Check the heating element on Electric Dryer models. On most brands this is behind the drum inside the dryer. On most Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper dryers, the heating element is behind the back panel, reached from the rear of the dryer.
  • On Gas models, check to see whether the igniter is glowing. If the ignitor does not glow, it may be a bad igniter, or a problem with power reaching the igniter. If the igniter glows and shuts back off, but no gas comes in, then the gas valve coils are usually the culprit. If the igniter glows and never shuts off, the flame sensor is usually the culprit.
  • Check the thermal fuse / thermostats. On most brand this is located either directly on the heater element canister, or on the blower housing. On Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper this is reached from the rear of the dryer.
Dryer heats, but take a long time to dry
  • Check the vent going to the outside. Usually the vent become either crushed or obstructed with lint buildup, and this prevents it from drying properly.
  • Check for major lint blockages inside the dryer.
  • Check for a grounded heat element. This occurs when a heat element breaks, and part of the coil touches the metal canister. This causes the heater to heat inefficiently, and sometimes to not shut off properly.

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Maytag Performa Dryer Won’t Start

NOTE: Before beginning repairs, remove power from the unit.

This information applies to many models, but specifically those starting with prefixes such as PYE, CYE, PYE2000, PYE2300, and more.

SymptomThings to check
Maytag Performa dryer won’t turn on
  1. Check the thermal fuse. This is 95% of the time the culprit on this specific style of machine.  To access it you must pop up the top (using a putty knife on the seam between the front and the top), locate the heating element in the back center on top, and on the right hand side should be a barely visible thermal fuse with two white wires running to it. Take out the screw for the bracket that retains the thermal fuse, and pull it out and test it for continuity. If you don’t have an ohmmeter, find someone who does. If you’re located in Omaha, bring it by and we’ll test it for free. If this was bad, also clean your venting and the blower housing on the machine to prevent further failure. The one with the blue label is the thermostat, not the thermal fuse.
  2. Check the door switch. A broken actuator or bad switch will mimic the bad thermal fuse.
  3. Check the motor (unlikely).
  4. Check the timer using an ohmmeter to check live power, but this is a dangerous activity. Consider using a professional if you’re not comfortable with live voltage.

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Diagnosing defrost issues on refrigerators and freezers

One common failure in modern refrigerators that we encounter time and time again is a failure in the defrost system. You might notice that things are as cold as they should be in either section, and if you’re very attentive, you might see an ice or frost buildup on the back wall inside the freezer section. Wait, don’t throw the refrigerator out! This is likely a simple fix.

You have a defrost issue. Now comes the hard part: Figuring out which component is bad, and replacing it.

SymptomThings to check
Step. 1: Determine what sets the machine into defrostOn newer models, skip ahead or call for specifics. Some machines can be forced into defrost, but some cannot. On older models, this would be the defrost timer. It’s a mechanical timer usually located inside the control box area in the refrigerator, but sometimes it’s placed behind the grille in the front center. Once you locate this item, find the center cam on this timer and advance it until you hear a loud click. Fan should shut down, and the machine is now in defrost. At this point, wait a minute, then check back. Is there water dripping behind the back wall inside the freezer? Do you hear a sizzling noise? If so, good job! You’ve just proven the defrost thermostat and heater are working properly, so you need a defrost timer. No such luck? Proceed on…
Step 2: Remove the back wall in the freezer, and locate the defrost thermostat at the top of the evaporator coil.It should have two wires going to it, and you may have to cut the wires to test it. Firstly, does it appear bulged out or discolored? If so, replace it. If not, you can test the thermostat with a continuity tester or ohmmeter. Make sure that the thermostat is below the rated temperature (about 50 degrees usually) or it will test bad. So it was good? Move on…
Step 3: Test the defrost heater for continuityInspect for visual breakage or severe discoloration. Replace as needed.

If this sounds overwhelming, no problem, we are here for you.  Contact us today.

We will make it look easy, but the first one we did was just as painful as this one appears to you. Practice makes perfect!

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Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Bravos, or Kenmore Oasis Washer giving UL or U/L error code

The UL error code can be one of the most frustrating and elusive error codes to address on the high efficiency top load washer designs, including the Whirlpool Cabrio, the Maytag Bravos, and the Kenmore Oasis. At first glance, the error code seems to indicate an unbalanced load. Here are a few things to check before you pull your hair out:

SymptomThings to check
Check for an unbalanced loadIt happens. Were you washing a comforter or other bulky item? These items don’t always distribute evenly, and may lead to an unbalance error.
Check for tub flotation, or items beneath wash basketGrasp the inner tub on opposite sides and lift up. The tub should raise and lower without much effort about 3 inches. This allows the tub to engage and disengage from spin, and if the tub isn’t moving easily, a UL error will display at the end of the cycle. The cure for this is replacement of the complete outer tub assembly, which is often part # W10193886. The part is about $250, and will require an hour or more of your time to install. We can supply it and drop ship it directly to you regardless of location, just call 402-399-0202. Free shipping! Rarely, this can also be caused by garments or objects stuck beneath the wash basket.
Check the shock or suspension assembliesIf all else fails, we’ve seen it be the suspension rods. They are sold as a pack of 4 under part # W10189077, and they run about $69. Again, we can ship these anywhere for free. There is not often any outward sign of failure with these, so we reserve their replacement for after all other checks have been performed.
Check the motor control boardOn models WTW6200S, WTW6300S, WTW6400S, and WTW6600S with a serial number range of CT04 to CT35, Whirlpool has issued a bulletin to replace the control board with W10112113 to remedy a severe off-balance condition.In a couple rare cases not under the update, we have found the motor control board to be the cause of this error, but there is no great definitive troubleshooting that will point to the board, which is usually part # W10189966 and retail about $200. It’s definitely a hard knock to discover that the control board was the issue, because at this point you’ve likely already replaced the shocks and torn your machine apart and reassembled it. Such is life.

Another word of caution. The UL code is often displayed only at the end of the cycle, so it’s easy to think, “Ah, I fixed it!” only to find out 52 minutes later that it’s still broken. Beware, and dampen your spirits until it’s successfully completed the full cycle. If it’s alright at the very end, then it’s time to pop the cork on the champagne bottle.

If there is anything we can do to help, contact us. We offer in-home service in the Omaha metro area, and we ship parts nationwide.

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